Is Big Thumper rusting away in a garage like the Royal Enfield below? Last year ‘Motorbikesindia.com’ offered $200 USD for the first person to find ‘Big Thumper’ so that we could re-unite Michelle with her Royal Enfield. Although we had a couple of people say they knew were the bike …
Read More »All the Gear — Epilogue (December 2014)
With the perspective of almost two decades, I look at this thirty-something woman with a great deal of amusement and a lot of exasperation. I am also amazed at how lucky she was: to do this journey and to finish it in safety. Although I am still a romantic at …
Read More »Chapter 20 – Packing up in Delhi (August – September 1998)
The improvised spacer made out of the inner ring of a ball bearing did not get be back to Delhi although I managed to get out of Ladakh and reach the town of Rampur where I knew I could find help from the local mechanic. I’d already met him in …
Read More »Chapter 19 – Ladakh (July – August 1998)
The rest of the road up towards Ladakh was a doddle in comparison and I felt rather superior whenever I met other bikers who had come up from the easier road from Manali. ‘You think this is difficult? Let me tell you about difficult…’ The road up to Leh in …
Read More »Chapter 18 – Stuck in Spiti (July 1998)
After working three days on my bike, the mechanic finally declared it sound and I set out of Mandi towards the Spiti region. I had already tried this trip last November but had been forced to abandon it when the road became a river and the army ordered me to …
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