Having spent the duration of my one-month visa in Nepal, I said my goodbyes to John and made my way back into India and to the town of Ayodhya, a focal point of Hindu-Muslim conflict in India. According to fundamentalist Hindus, Muslims committed sacrilege in Ayodhya by building a mosque …
Read More »Chapter 16 – Nepal (May – June 1998)
I left my last hotel in India early in the morning and had another long gruelling day. I hated retracing my route and just wanted to get the money-belt episode behind me. What a relief when I got off Highway 34 and branched off to the right towards Nepal. I …
Read More »Chapter 15 – Oh! Quel cul t’as! (April 1998)
I arrived at the railway station in Mumbai a couple hours before departure to check my bike onto the train. At the luggage office, I filled in the necessary forms and had the bike wrapped in jute and cardboard for protection, hoping the 100-rupee note I slipped to the packer …
Read More »Chapter 14 — Steak au Poivre in Tamil Nadu (March 1998)
I installed myself in a hotel on Cape Comorin and went out in search of a nice beach to spend the day. As I rode towards a small resort 40 kilometres away with bathing costume, towel and diary in my shoulder bag, I passed a roadside mechanic. I pulled over. …
Read More »‘All the Gear – No Idea’ Chapter 13 Land’s End (Feb – Mar 1998)
On the way out of the Coorg mountains, while heading towards the hot plains, I rode through the Nagarhole Wildlife Tiger Sanctuary where I had trouble avoiding the potholes because my eyes were peeled to the undergrowth in the hope I’d finally see a tiger. Instead, as I rounded a …
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